São Nicolau - Nature pure
One of the volcanic islands of the Cape Verdean archipelago, known for its picturesque villages and stunning scenery.
São Nicolau
São Nicolau is a natural island with an area of 346 km², ideal for hikers and mountain bikers. The island is about 15 km long and 8 km wide, with a population of about 20,000 inhabitants. São Nicolau is known for its picturesque landscapes of mountains, cliffs, and sandy beaches.
The mountains are not as high as on Santo Antão, and the highest peak is Monte Gordo at 1312m in the fertile northwest of the island. The clouds stick to the northeast side of the mountain. Sugar cane, vegetables, and tropical fruits grow on the lava soil of Fajã de São Nicolau. From the top, you can see as far as southern Tarrafal. The “fat mountain” is surrounded by the nature park of the same name, with a large population of dragon trees southwest of Cachaço.
There are only two larger towns – the port town of Tarrafal in the southwest and the capital Ribeira Brava in the northeast. The capital is characterized by picturesque, colorful houses amid an impressive mountain backdrop. From Ribeira Brava, a beautiful road leads to Tarrafal, a town with more inhabitants than Ribeira Brava. On the way, you can detour the “Blue Hole”, an opening in the rock undermined by the sea. A beautiful sandy beach stretches out in front of the fishing village.
One of the most beautiful hikes on the island is the three-hour hike from Praia Branca to Fajã, which takes you along steep cliffs, double cliffs, and through the Ribeira da Prata valley. In the southern part of the island is Preguçia, a shabby fishing village that used to be a trading port and a large whaling station. There are abandoned houses and villages in the eastern part of the island, except for Carriçal and Juncalinho, where there is still life. In Juncalinho, you can visit the Capela da Sagrada Familia, which was made possible by a Capuchin monk.
More information: www.saonicolau.de
Transportation:
- São Nicolau has 3-4 flights a week from Sal and Santiago and 1 flight a week from São Vicente.
- There are ferries to Sal, Boa Vista, Santiago, and São Vicente.
Ribeira Brava
The capital of the island has about 5,000 inhabitants. The city was founded in 1693 at an altitude of 200 meters in a broad valley. The town is bustling in the morning, with narrow cobbled streets and lively trade. There are accommodations, restaurants, shops, and a well-stocked market hall. Colonial architecture is evident in some well-preserved commercial buildings and in the Nossa Senhora do Rosário cathedral, which served as the cathedral of the Cape Verde Islands from 1784 to 1943.
The Ribeira Brava (“rushing river”) runs through the town. Following its course towards the west, you come to the Seminário-Liceu, the seminary for priests. Founded in 1866, it attracted the best minds of the archipelago for decades. Unfortunately, its library was lost when it was closed at the beginning of the 20th century. On the other hand, the Cruzeiro de Penedo (Cross of Penedo) stands on a prominent rocky outcrop. It is something like the symbol of the city.
Video about São Nicolau
Tarrafal
The hottest place on São Nicolau is Tarrafal with its approximately 3,700 inhabitants. In the 19. Century, the place became an anchorage for whaling ships. An infrastructure for fish processing was built, which led to a further growth of the settlement. Here, everything revolves around the port and the beach. Fishing boats and trawlers land their catch, and refrigerated warehouses and a fish factory allow for processing. The ferry from Praia to Mindelo makes a stop here.
The drive down from the mountains to the beach is disheartening: the lush green becomes a steppe-like desert. The wide sandy beach of Praia da Luz, northwest of the city, is the only real bathing place and the tourist capital of the place. The black sand, rich in titanium and iodine, is said to relieve joint pain and rheumatism. The locals use its therapeutic properties by burying themselves in the warm sand. Toward the northwest, Praia da Luz flows into the hellish Praia Francês.
If you look from Tarrafal towards the west, you will see two small islands: the Ilhéu Branco and the Ilhéu Razo. The two uninhabited islands have been protected since 2003 and may only be visited with special permission. Behind them are the uninhabited island of Santa Luzia and the highest peaks of São Vicente and Santo Antão.
Carberinho
If you leave Tarrafal on the road towards Praia Branca, after 16 km, you will reach a place where a road branches off to the left, leading to the Carberinho beach. From here, it is a 20-minute walk to the sea. There, you will find one of the most beautiful places on the island. Bizarre eroded rock formations offer a spectacular view in the roar of the surf. Eroded horizontal layers of volcanic ash form the attractive background.
Juncalinho und Carriçal
The two places are located in the sparsely populated east of São Nicolau. Getting there is still an adventure in itself. There is a paved road to Juncalinho. The 400 inhabitants live in houses of traditional construction. The village is located on a picturesque rocky coast. The natural stone Capela da Sagrada Família was built in 1960.
There is another 17 km to Carriçal on a bumpy road with many potholes. This road is only suitable for off-road vehicles and is a challenge even for mountain bikers. Just before the Ribeira Alta, the road turns inland and crosses the desertlike eastern tongue of land over a 490m high pass. Carriçal lies at the confluence of two dry river beds into an oasis. Coconut palms and banana plantations form the picturesque backdrop to the beautiful, dark Carriçal Beach, where sea turtles lay their eggs in the summer. Behind the oasis-like village, rugged mountains rise. The villagers live from fishing and the cultivation of fruit and vegetables.
All in all, São Nicolau is a beautiful island with a rich culture and landscape to discover. You can find more information about the other islands of Cape Verde here. Everything you need to know about traveling to Cape Verde can be found in our blog article!